Spring Creek Gems®
Netherland Dwarf Rabbits
"The Gem of the Fancy"
East Tennessee
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PROBLEMS
Netherland Dwarfs are prone to some genetic issues that should be avoided if you are trying to develop quality lines and a reputation for fine rabbits. There are also some common health issues. I won't go into all the diseases as there is a wealth of info on the web about that. I will touch on conditions that I have experience with. See Links for more sites that go into rabbit health. The Merck Veterinary Manual is an excellent online reference.
Enteritis: Severe diarrhea, often with jelly-like mucus. There are many causes, but the most common are stress, unfamiliar or contaminated food, loss of gut flora (beneficial bacteria in the intestines), and lack of sufficient fiber. This can kill a rabbit, especially a baby, very quickly. Most common in weanlings. By the time you notice, it may be too late. Providing plenty of fiber in the form of grass hay is the most important thing you can do to prevent it. Probiotics such as BeneBac, or Acid-Pak help repopulate the gut with the bacteria needed. If you catch it in time, probiotics will usually fix it. Occasional loose stools in adults are not usually a cause for concern. As always, the rabbit should have plenty of fiber available.
Heat Stress: Rabbits can take the cold, but not the heat. They must be protected from sun and extreme hot temperatures. They can usually acclimate to summer's heat as long as they are not exposed to the sun, and there is plenty of fresh air flow. Fans in the rabbitry are a good idea to keep the air moving. The rabbits are warm if they are laying all stretched out, but this is not cause for concern. The first sign of heat stress is rapid panting. If the rabbit gets any hotter, the panting will become more pronounced with the mouth open and head thrown back, and a wet face. This is critical and the rabbit must be cooled immediately. Move to a cooler location. To cool the rabbit quickly, wet the ears with cool water. Rabbits vent heat through their ears. A fan blowing over (but not on) the rabbit to cool the air around it. Provide fresh cool water to drink. Luckily, due to their small size, Netherlands can take the heat a little better than larger breeds.
Hutch Burn: An inflammation of the genitals caused by dirty conditions. This isn't necessarily due to dirty cage. Some rabbits don't keep themselves as clean, and a build-up of feces under the tail can happen. Does are sometimes prone to hutch burn after having a litter. Check genitals often, and clean as needed. If infected, clean well and apply a topical antibiotic. Pen-G Ointment is a penicillin-based ointment that works very well for this type of infection. See Vent Disease.
Malocclusion: Sometimes called wolf teeth. This is the teeth not aligning properly. The top teeth need to pass in front of the bottom. It's sometimes just butting (teeth come together), or sometimes seriously misaligned with the bottom over the top. The bottom teeth won't wear down normally and continue to grow longer. Rabbits cannot live this way. Sometimes this is due to other factors. A bunny can ruin his teeth by chewing and pulling on the cage wire. Always give your bunnies something to chew or toys if they are bored. Another time that you might see butting teeth is at a young age. NDs have large round heads, and sometimes the jaws grow faster than the head. This often corrects itself as the head catches up in growth. Again, something to chew will help realign the teeth. You can try clipping or filing the bottom teeth to get them in line, but if this doesn't fix it, it won't fix. It's sometimes genetic. You may see this tendency in a particluar line. Imported lines have been known to carry this defect due to their extra large heads. Watch the growing kits' teeth carefully to make sure this doesn't become a problem. If a rabbit is throwing bad teeth that don't correct in its offspring, cull that rabbit.
Snuffles: This term is often used to describe any runny nose or sneezing, and can be due to different causes. Pasteurellosis (contagious snuffles) is said to be impossible to cure, and evidence is a thick mucus discharge, and usually spread by direct contact. Euthanasia is recommended for contagious snuffles. Bordatella is a highly contagious airborn disease that manifests as sneezing and quick spread through a rabbitry. Bordatella is treatable with a vet's help. Slightly wet nose with a thin, clear discharge and/or occasional sneezing may just be a case of irritation or allergy due to dust or air quality. Immediately isolate a runny nose from other rabbits to see what you are dealing with.
Sore Hocks: NDs aren't as prone to this as heavier breeds, but it can happen. One cause is rough rusty floor wire. Another could be genetic. The skin and fur on the bottom of the feet may be too thin to provide a cushion. It can affect bucks due to their thumping. The first treatment is providing a more comfortable surface to stand on. Replace rusty floor wire. A resting board can help clear up sore hocks without any other treatment. This can be any smooth solid surface large enough for the bunny to sit on. A special plastic board is available through supply dealers. It's a grid with holes large enough for droppings to fall through. A simple square of wood or a ceramic tile is fine, too. Preparation-H is said to help cool and heal the inflamation quickly. If you don't see improvement with the resting board, try the ointment.
Temperment: Bad Bunnies. In the past, NDs had a reputation for bad temperment. Breeders have worked hard to breed this out, and it's no longer true. BEWs (Blue-Eyed White) were once considered the worst due to severe inbreeding. This should not be confused with tempermental does. Sometimes does are territorial and protective of their babies and this is normal. If they are sweet most of the time, they shouldn't be considered bad bunnies. An over-excited buck may bite if you come between him and his doe. A rabbit should never attack you for no reason. Bad tempers, biters, or other neurotic behaviors should be culled to prevent its being passed down.
Vent Disease (VD): Contagious venereal disease. Inflamed, infected genitals, often with scabby pimples. These pimples can appear on the nose and mouth, being passed there by the rabbit's cleaning itself. If pimples are not present, and the face is unaffected, it may be a simple case of Hutch Burn. More aggressive treatment is required for VD. Penicillin injections are the most effective. Affected rabbits should be kept from contact with others. See Hutch Burn.
Weepy Eyes: Wet, runny eyes. Caused by irritation from foreign material, injury, or air quality. Heavy pus is a sign of serious infection. For simple weepy eye, wash gently with sterile saline solution (for contact lenses), or warm water. This will usually wash out the irritant and beginning of infection. If due to air quality, usually ammonia fumes from too much urine in the tray, clean the tray and make sure there is plenty of fresh air flow around the cage. For a real infection, wash eye as before, and apply an antibiotic opthalmic ointment for eyes. I use Terramycin ointment found at the local farm store with excellent results. Usually clears up within a few days.
Wry Neck: Head tilt. The head is tilted to the side, often so severely that the rabbit has no balance causing uncontrolled rolling of the body. It can be due to different factors, but most are evidence of an inner ear infection. It could be ear mites, or a virus. If caught in the early stages, it can be treated. Once the head is severely tilted, the rabbit will probably not regain its normal stance completely. Euthanasia is recommended.
Prevention is the best defense. Good quality feed, fiber, clean water 24/7, and good ventilation go the farthest in preventing illness. I'm a firm believer in a strong immune system in rabbits. The strong survive. I don't believe in dosing rabbits at every sign of illness. Since I rarely treat illness aggressively, I believe my herd has developed a fairly strong immune system. My barn is not sterile, and the buns are exposed to germs, including each other's. If they don't develop immunities, they will die, and that's better for the rest of the herd. It's also better for anyone who takes one of my rabbits. I feel confident that the bunny will do just fine in a new environment. I also strive for genetically sound stock to prevent the other issues.
Related Info: Glossary; Links; The Merck Veterinary Manual
* DISCLAIMER * This article was written from personal experience and opinion, and some input from other breeders. It is intended as a guide only. Other breeders may disagree or have other methods.
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