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Unrecognized Varieties Netherland Dwarfs come in so many recognized varieties, there's something for everyone. The genetics of coat color is a bit complicated, but not that hard to grasp. Knowing what your rabbits carry, and how those colors work with each other is important if you want to produce showable rabbits. See Color ~ Genetics for a basic genetics lesson. There's also a lot of unrecognized colors that can show up in your nestboxes. Some of these are useful with certain varieties, but none are showable. Again, you need to understand your color program to avoid too many DQs in your nestboxes. Unfortunately, I don't have photos for most of these, so I'm not including any on this page. See Color ~ Photos for the ones I do have. Chocolate, Lilac Tort: Result of chocolate genes in Tort. Identified by chocolate or lilac tort shading on orangey body. Chocolate/Lilac Tort may appear to be Orange/Fawn, but is identified by the lack of white trim on belly, ears, nostrils, undertail. If neither parent is agouti or Orange/Fawn, it's Choc/Lilac Tort. Chocolate/Lilac Tort useful to produce bright clean color on Orange/Fawn. Blue Point: Also known as Smoke Pearl Point or Dilute Sable Point. The result of the dilute gene in Sable Points. Identified by creamy white body, blue points, blue-gray eyes. Not to be confused with light Siamese Smoke Pearl. Useful to produce Siamese Smoke Pearl. Chocolate, Lilac Point: The result of the chocolate gene in Sable Points. Identified by chocolate or lilac points. There's no use for these. Shaded Chocolate: Also known as Chocolate Sable. The result of the shaded gene in Chocolate or Lilac, or the chocolate gene in shaded. Identified as kits by silvery ticking. Later by lighter irregular color and light eyes. There's no use for these. Seal: The result of Siamese Sable x Siamese Sable. Identified by extremely dark brown color with no shading visible. Often appears black at maturity, but can be told by buffy color on footpads, and around groin. If both parents are shaded, it's Seal. Dark Siamese Sables are often referred to as Seals, but if shading is visible, they can be shown. Useful with REW, Himi, Siamese Smoke Pearl to produce shaded and Himi. Blue Seal: Dilute Seal. Identified as kits by silvery ticking and tawny cast. Difficult to tell from Blue as adults, although a good eye can spot the tawniness. If both parents are shaded, it's Blue Seal. Useful as for Seal. Seal Marten: Seal with Silver Marten markings. The result of the shaded gene. May appear to be Black Silver Marten, but is more brownish. Sometimes due to poor color modifiers in Silver Marten. If due to shaded, they are useful to produce Sable and Smoke Pearl Martens, however, REW or Himi should be introduced to correct too dark color and shading. A Silver Marten program should select for the best color. Chocolate Chestnut: Also known as Cinnamon. The result of the chocolate gene in Chestnut. Identified by brown ticking. Easiest to see on top of the tail. Useful for Lynx or Orange. Shaded Chin: Also known as Sable Chin. The result of the shaded gene in Chinchilla. Identified by brown ticking, and shading may be evident. Smoke Pearl Chin is often mistaken for Squirrel (Blue Chin). I don't know of any use for these. See Color ~ Kits for Sable Chin photos. Ermine: Also known as Frosty, Brown-Eyed White. The result of the "ee" non-extension gene from Chinchilla parents. Identified by mostly white fur with darker ticking. May display some shading. There's no use for these. Fox: Also known as Tort Otter, Tort Marten, Totter. The result of the "ee" non-extension gene coming from tan pattern parents. Identified by tort color and shading with white tan pattern markings. Can be black, blue, chocolate, lilac. Chocolate Fox may appear to be Orange, and Blue Fox can be mistaken for Opal. Close inspection will find the lack of agouti ring pattern. If neither parent is agouti or Orange/Fawn, it's Fox. There isn't much use for Fox, although some Orange breeders use them. Broken Himi: The result of Himalayan x Broken. Identified by lack of color on feet and tail. Nose and ear color may be broken. Useful to produce Broken shadeds. Himi Marten, Agouti Himi: The result of Himalayan x tan pattern or agouti. Identified by white under-tail, nostrils, and ear lacing. The best place to watch for it is the tail as this is where Himi color develops first. Might not be clear until color has come in fully. Agouti Himi may have ticking on points. Himi Marten useful with Sable Marten or Smoke Pearl Marten. I don't know of any use for Agouti Himi. True Charlie: Also known as Double Broken or just Charlie. The result of Broken x Broken. Identified by scarce color or markings, usually confined to the head. Useful to produce all Broken in a litter. *Note: True Charlie can only be identified for sure by test breeding as False Charlies can also occur in a Broken x Broken litter. False Charlie: Also known as Charlie-Marked, 8%, or just Broken. The result of a lack of modifiers to produce proper pattern in Brokens. Identified by scarce color, often confined to the head. Not to be confused with True Charlie which can only come from 2 broken parents. True Charlie will produce all Broken when bred to solid, but False Charlie will only produce a percentage of Broken as with any other Broken x solid pair. False Charlie isn't likely to produce better pattern than itself. Can be used with better patterned Brokens to produce more Broken per litter. Vienna-Marked (VM): Also known as Sport, Dutch-marked, Parti-color, Mismarked. The result of Blue-Eyed White (BEW) x any other variety. Identified by white markings often similar to Dutch rabbits. Markings vary widely from white snips to predominately white. Often heavy scattered white hairs in color. Eyes might be blue or partially blue. The Vienna gene can hide for generations, and suddenly appear. Not to be confused with Broken. Useful to produce Blue-Eyed White. Red: Very rare. The result of Rufous Factor and the Wideband gene. Identified by deep red color over the entire body. Similiar to the Thrianta breed. Not to be confused with dark Orange which will have white agouti markings on belly, etc. Red is useful for Tan. Related Info: Color Articles; Color ~ Photos; Glossary; Links * DISCLAIMER * This article was written from personal experience and opinion, and some input from other breeders. It is intended as a guide only. Other breeders may disagree or have other methods. This article or any part of this site may not be reproduced without permission. |
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